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Toll-Free: (800) 461-5539
Phone: (509) 886-1566
Fax: (509) 884-5464
Address:
Mail:
PO Box 75
Wenatchee, WA 98807
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4857 Contractors Drive
E. Wenatchee, WA 98802
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Helpful Landscape Hints & Tips
Trees In Your Backyard
Trees in your backyard can be home to many different types of wildlife. Trees can
also reduce your heating and cooling costs, help clean the air, add beauty and color,
provide shelter from the wind and the sun, and add value to your home.
Choosing a tree
Choosing a tree should be a well thought-out
decision. Tree planting can be a significant investment in money and time. Proper
selection can provide you with years of enjoyment as well as significantly increase
the value of your property. An inappropriate tree for your property can be a constant
maintenance problem or even a hazard.
Before you buy, take advantage
of the abundant references on gardening at local libraries, universities, arboretums,
parks where trees are identified, native plant and gardening clubs, and nurseries.
Some questions to consider in selecting a tree include:
- What purpose will this tree serve? Trees can serve numerous landscape functions
including beautification, screening of sights and sounds, shade and energy conservation,
and wildlife habitat.
- Is the species appropriate for your area? Reliable nurseries will not sell plant
material that is not suitable for your area. However, some mass marketers have trees
and shrubs that are not winter hardy in the area sold. Even if a tree is hardy,
it may not flower consistently from year to year at the limits of its useful range
due to late spring freezes. If you are buying a tree for the spring flowers and
fall fruits, this may be a consideration. In warmer climates, there may not be a
long enough period of cool temperatures for some species, such as apples, to develop
flowers. Apples and other species undergo vernalization--a period of near-freezing
temperatures that cause changes in the plant, resulting in the production of flowers.
Be aware of microclimates. Microclimates are very localized areas where weather
conditions may vary from the norm. A very sheltered yard may support vegetation
not normally adapted to the region. On the other hand, a north-facing slope may
be significantly cooler or windier than surrounding areas and survival of normally
adapted plants may be limited. Select trees native to your area. They will be more
tolerant of local weather and soil conditions, enhance natural biodiversity in your
neighborhood, and be more beneficial to wildlife than many non-native trees. Avoid
exotic trees that can invade other areas, crowd out native plants, and harm natural
ecosystems.
- How big will it get? When planting a small tree, it is often difficult to imagine
that in 20 years it could be shading your entire yard. Unfortunately, many trees
are planted and later removed when the tree grows beyond the dimensions of the property.
- What is the average life expectancy of the tree? Some trees can live for hundreds
of years. Others are considered "short-lived" and may live for only 20
or 30 years. Many short-lived trees tend to be smaller ornamental species. Short-lived
species should not necessarily be ruled out when considering plantings. They may
have other desirable characteristics, such as size, shape, tolerance of shade, or
fruit, that would be useful in the landscape. These species may also fill a void
in a young landscape, and can be removed as other larger, longer-lived species mature.
- Does it have any particular ornamental value such as leaf color or flowers and fruits?
Some species provide beautiful displays of color for short periods in the spring
or fall. Other species may have foliage that is reddish or variegated and can add
color in your landscaping year round. Trees bearing fruits or nuts can provide an
excellent source of food for many species of wildlife. However, some people consider
some fruit and nut bearing trees to be "dirty."
- Does it have any particular insect, disease, or other problem that may reduce its
usefulness? Certain insects and diseases can be serious problems on some desirable
species in some regions. Depending on the pest, control of the problem may be difficult
and the pest may significantly reduce the attractiveness, if not the life expectancy,
of the plant. Other species such as the silver maple (Acer saccharium) are known
to have weak wood that is susceptible to damage in ice storms or heavy winds.
- How common is this species in your neighborhood or town? Some species are over-planted.
Increasing the natural diversity will provide habitat for wildlife and help limit
the opportunity for a single pest to destroy all plantings. An excellent example
of this was the American elm (Ulmus americana). This lovely tree was widely planted
throughout the United States. With the introduction of Dutch elm disease, thousands
of communities lost all their street trees in only a few years.
- Is the tree evergreen or deciduous? Evergreen trees will provide cover and shade
year round. They may also be more effective as a barrier for wind and noise. Deciduous
trees will give you summer shade but allow the winter sun to shine in. This may
be a consideration for where to place the tree in your yard.
Placement of trees
Proper placement of trees is critical for your enjoyment and their long-term
survival. Check with local authorities about regulations pertaining to placement
of trees. Some communities have ordinances restricting placement of trees within
a specified distance of a street, sidewalk, streetlight, or other utilities. Before
planting your tree, consider the tree's ultimate size. When the tree nears maturity,
will it be too near your house or other structures? Be considerate of your neighbors.
An evergreen tree planted on your north side may block the winter sun from your
next door neighbor. Will it provide too much shade for your vegetable and flower
gardens? Most vegetables and many flowers require considerable amounts of sun. If
you intend to grow these plants, consider how the placement of trees will affect
these gardens. Will it obstruct driveways or sidewalks? Will it cause problems for
buried or overhead utilities?
Planting a tree
A properly planted and maintained tree will grow faster and live longer than
one that is incorrectly planted. Trees can be planted almost any time of the year
as long as the ground is not frozen. Late summer or early fall is the optimum time
to plant trees in many areas. This gives the tree a chance to establish new roots
before winter arrives and the ground freezes. When spring arrives, the tree is ready
to grow. The second choice for planting is late winter or early spring. Planting
in hot summer weather should be avoided. Planting in frozen soil during the winter
is difficult and tough on tree roots. When the tree is dormant and the ground is
frozen, there is no opportunity for the growth of new roots. Trees are purchased
as container grown, balled and burlapped (B&B), and bare root. Generally, container
grown are the easiest to plant and successfully establish in any season, including
summer. With container grown stock, the plant has been growing in a container for
a period of time. When planting container grown plants, little damage is done to
the roots as the plant is transferred to the soil. Container grown trees range in
size from very small plants in gallon pots up to large trees in huge pots. B&B
plants frequently have been dug from a nursery, wrapped in burlap, and kept in the
nursery for an additional period of time, giving the roots opportunity to regenerate.
B&B plants can be quite large. Bare root trees are usually extremely small plants.
Because there is no soil on the roots, they must be planted when they are dormant
to avoid drying out. The roots must be kept moist until planted. Frequently, bare
root trees are offered by seed and nursery mail order catalogs or in the wholesale
trade. Many state operated nurseries and local conservation districts also sell
bare root stock in bulk quantities for only a few cents per plant. Bare root plants
usually are offered in the early spring and should be planted as soon as possible
upon arrival.
Carefully follow the planting instructions that come with
your tree.
If specific instructions are not available, follow these tips:
- BEFORE DIGGING, call your local utilities to identify the location
of any underground utilities.
- Dig a hole twice as wide as, and slightly shallower than, the root ball. Roughen
the sides and bottom of the hole with a pick or shovel so that roots can penetrate
the soil.
- With a potted tree, gently remove the tree from the container. Lay the tree on its
side with the container end near the planting hole. Hit the bottom and sides of
the container until the root ball is loosened. If roots are growing in a circular
pattern around the root ball, slice through the roots on a couple of sides of the
root ball. With trees wrapped in burlap, remove the string or wire that holds the
burlap to the root crown. It is unnecessary to completely remove the burlap. Plastic
wraps must be completely removed. Gently separate circling roots on the root ball.
Shorten exceptionally long roots, and guide the shortened roots downward and outward.
Root tips die quickly when exposed to light and air, so don't waste time.
- Place the root ball in the hole. Leave the top of the root ball (where the roots
end and the trunk begins) 1/2 to 1 inch above the surrounding soil, making sure
not to cover it unless roots are exposed. For bare root plants, make a mound of
soil in the middle of the hole and spread plant roots out evenly over mound. Do
not set trees too deep. As you add soil to fill in around the tree, lightly tamp
the soil to collapse air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil. Form a temporary
water basin around the base of the tree to encourage water penetration, and water
thoroughly after planting. A tree with a dry root ball cannot absorb water; if the
root ball is extremely dry, allow water to trickle into the soil by placing the
hose at the trunk of the tree.
- Mulch around the tree. A 3-foot diameter circle of mulch is common.
- Depending on the size of the tree and the site conditions, staking may be beneficial.
Staking supports the tree until the roots are well established to properly anchor
it. Staking should allow for some movement of the tree. After trees are established,
remove all support wires. If these are not removed they can girdle the tree, cutting
into the trunk and eventually killing the tree.
Maintenance
For the first year or two, especially after a week or so of especially hot
or dry weather, watch your trees closely for signs of moisture stress. If you see
leaf wilting or hard, caked soil, water the trees well and slowly enough to allow
the water to soak in. This will encourage deep root growth. Keep the area under
the trees mulched. Some species of evergreen trees may need protection against winter
sun and wind. A thorough watering in the fall before the ground freezes is recommended.
Spray solutions are available to help prevent drying of foliage during the winter.
Fertilization is usually not needed for newly planted trees. Depending on soil and
growing conditions, fertilizer may be beneficial at a later time.
Young
trees need protection against rodents, frost cracks, sunscald, and lawn mowers and
weed whackers. Mice and rabbits frequently girdle small trees by chewing away the
bark at snow level. Since the tissues that transport nutrients in the tree are located
just under the bark, a girdled tree often dies in the spring when growth resumes.
Weed whackers are also a common cause of girdling. Plastic guards are an inexpensive
and easy control method.
Frost cracking is caused by the sunny side
of the tree expanding at a different rate than the colder shaded side. This can
cause large splits in the trunk. Sunscald can occur when a young tree is suddenly
moved from a shady spot into direct sun. Light colored tree wraps can be used to
protect the trunk from sunscald.
Pruning
Usually, pruning is not needed on newly planted trees. As the tree grows,
lower branches may be pruned to provide clearance above the ground, or to remove
dead or damaged limbs or suckers that sprout from the trunk. Sometimes larger trees
need pruning to allow more light to enter the canopy. Small branches can be removed
easily with pruners. Large branches should be removed with a pruning saw. All cuts
should be vertical. This will allow the tree to heal quickly without the use of
sealants. Major pruning should be done in late winter or early spring. At this time
the tree is more likely to "bleed" as sap is rising through the plant.
This is actually healthy and will help prevent invasion by many disease organisms.
Heavy pruning in the late summer or fall may reduce the tree's winter hardiness.
Removal of large branches can be hazardous. If in doubt about your ability to prune
properly, contact a professional with the proper equipment.
Under no circumstance
should trees be topped. Not only does this practice ruin the natural shape of the
tree, but it increases susceptibility to diseases and results in very narrow crotch
angles, the angle between the trunk and the side branch. Narrow crotch angles are
weaker than wide ones and more susceptible to damage from wind and ice. If a large
tree requires major reduction in height or size, contact a professionally trained
arborist. There are other methods to selectively remove large branches without sacrificing
the health or beauty of the tree.
On the farm
Windbreaks and tree plantings slow the wind and provide shelter and food for wildlife.
Trees can shelter livestock and crops; they are used as barriers to slow winds that
blow across large cropped fields and through farmsteads. Windbreaks can be beneficial
in reducing blowing and drifting snow along roadways. Farmstead and field windbreaks
and tree plantings are key components of a conservation system. They also help prevent
dust particles from adding to smog over urban areas.
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